History: Bonsai as an ancient horticultural art form dates back over a thousand years. It has been traced to 4th century A.D. China and may have earlier origins in India. The Chinese grew miniature landscapes with rocks and mosses in shallow pots. These landscapes were called penjing. From China the art form spread to Japan where it was further developed and refined into what we now call bonsai. The art of bonsai was not introduced to America until after World War II, when soldiers brought back specimens they bought. Today, bonsai is practiced throughout the world.
The word bonsai (pronounced bone-sigh) is a combination of the terms "bon" (pot) and "sai" (tree), and literally means tree-in-a-pot. The term is both singular and plural. Bonsai is not simply a styled tree, but the combination of the tree and the pot. The tree and the pot form a single harmonious unit where the shape, texture and color of one complements the other. Then the tree must be shaped. Every branch and twig of a bonsai is shaped or eliminated until the chosen image is achieved. From then on, the image is maintained and improved by a constant regime of pruning and trimming.
About the Trees: Contrary to popular belief, bonsai are not "special" breeds of regular trees. Bonsai is the art of growing trees in miniature. Bonsai are modeled on, and take inspiration from nature to recreate nature's most stunning and beautiful effects in a reduced scale. Bonsai may have a stylized or an exaggerated form, but as found in nature. The appearance of old age in a tree is highly prized and bonsai may live to be hundreds of years old.
Almost any woody tree or shrub can be a bonsai, with the right care and styling techniques. Material for bonsai may be taken from nature, grown from cuttings or seed, or bought at local nurseries. A prime consideration when selecting a tree should be the leaf size, with deciduous and most conifers, or the length of the needle, when selecting pine species. Remember that a bonsai is a tree, and has a tree’s needs. Trees respond to your care, and will thrive with your attention.
Bonsai trees are kept small by pruning the branches and roots and growing the trees in pots. A tree planted in a small pot is not a bonsai until it has been pruned, shaped, and trained into the desired shape. Only branches important to the overall design of the bonsai are allowed to remain and are wired. Unwanted growth is pruned away. Roots are confined to a pot and are periodically clipped. Bonsai do not receive less nutrients, sunlight, or water than regular trees, and the trimming and potting of bonsai is no more detrimental to them than trimming hedges or mowing grass.
Tips on Viewing: When viewing a bonsai display, you will notice three elements: the tree, an accent item (usually a stone or plant) and the stand (called a "dai"). These three items should harmonize to form a triangle, with the highest point being the top of the tree. The accent item will be placed to the left or the right of the tree and will form the furthest point of the triangle. Bonsai are never displayed sitting directly on the display surface.
The tree itself will present either a single triangle or set of triangle shaped features. The highest point of the triangle is, in most cases, the top of the tree (called the "apex"). The right and left points of the triangle are formed by the first and second branches (the two branches closest to the ground). Most of the basic styles follow this general rule. When viewing the displays, see if you can find the triangles.
Other features to look for are good, strong, visible roots (nebari), a gentle movement and taper in the trunk (tachi-agari), a distinct apex, and well developed branches and foliage. The trunk should have a good taper, with good root formation visible at soil level. Branches should be larger at the bottom of the tree and decrease in size as they near the top. The distance between the branches should decrease as they near the top of the tree. There should be negative (open) areas between the branches to give the impression of a tree rather than a shrub. A bonsai may have areas of dead wood to give an impression of age. To fully appreciate bonsai, get down to the level of the tree and look up into it much as you would look at a tree in nature.
Here are a few words of advice for the newcomer that may help to better prepare you for what is to come.
Selecting Your First Tree: When you are ready to work on your first tree, you should select a species that is "forgiving" to the beginner. One of the most often recommended is the Juniper procumbens nana, a dwarf garden juniper. They are readily available, take pruning well, can be worked on most of the year, and are generally inexpensive. They also root well as cuttings, so you can begin starting your own "mini nursery" as you shape your first tree.
There are several things to look for in nursery stock. First, look at the rootage and check to see if it gives the appearance of a strong foundation. The root at the base of the trunk should appear to gently spread out in a radial pattern (this will be less apparent on junipers). They should provide a sense of stability, and invite you to follow the line of the tree and focus your attention on the trunk. Good rootage invites you to examine the tree from the ground up.
If the rootage looks good, examine the trunk. The qualities you are looking for in the trunk depend somewhat on the style of the tree. In almost all cases, however, a thick base, which tapers gradually and gently to a thin apex, will make for a nice tree. If you are thinking about a formal upright design, you will want a very straight trunk, with little or no curvature. If you are considering other styles, you will want to examine how the trunk "moves." Try to find a trunk that curves in interesting or unusual ways, and has some sense of movement that invites you to examine it further. Follow the main trunk line to its highest point (that will most likely be the apex). Does it suggest a design to you? Can you begin to see the tree within the plant?
Next, look at the branching pattern. Look for thick lower branches and thinner higher ones. These branches will form the main structure of your tree. Try to imagine how they fit with and balance the movement of the trunk.
At this point, a style should be suggesting itself to you. Does the tree fit any particular style? Can you see it as a windswept design, as a cascade? Is the tree suited to the style you select? Not all trees are suited to all styles, so you need to know something about the growth characteristics of the species you select. What kind of growth and shaping will be required in order for the tree to emerge? Do you see something in that mass of branches, twigs, needles, or leaves that others might not? How can you bring it out?
Finally, examine the plant to make sure it is healthy. Are the leaves colorful and vibrant? Is there new growth? Does the plant look healthy? As you experiment more, signs of growth and health will become more apparent to you. If you suspect the tree is unhealthy, pass on it. For your first time out, try to pick something that will be able to withstand the process of pruning, wiring and potting that you are going to undertake.
Potting:
Branch Placement:
Location: Bonsai need some direct sunlight. A lack of direct sun will damage them, causing weak foliage and other problems. They should receive 5 to 6 hours of sunlight daily. Remember that the more sunlight and warmth your bonsai receives, the more often it will need water.
Watering: Proper watering is essential to the health of your tree. Bonsai usually need to be watered every day or two. They like to get a little dry in between waterings, but they must never be allowed to become bone-dry. Check daily to see if your bonsai needs water by pressing down firmly on the moss or soil at the base of the trunk. If it feels moist or cool, or sort of soft and spongy, then it does not need water. When the topsoil feels dry, set the whole pot in a basin of water, right up to the base of the trunk, allowing water to saturate the soil. The soil will be saturated in about 5 minutes. Drain off any extra water. Bonsai do not like to be wet all the time, nor to sit in water for long periods--it is bad for their health. During the winter months, you may water once a week or less; in the summer, you may water every day, every other day, or even twice a day, depending on location and climate. It is best to water early in the day or late in the afternoon at the same time every day. The length of time between watering can vary quite a bit depending on conditions such as humidity, soil moisture retention, weather conditions, and size of pot. The cycle will vary, so avoid strict schedules and you will soon recognize the watering needs of your bonsai.
Fertilizing: Fertilizer is not quite food for plants, it is more like vitamins and minerals. As with vitamins, a small amount on a regular basis is the best plan. A water-soluble fertilizer is usually applied every 2 to 4 weeks during the growing season, in a half-strength solution. Miracle-Gro or Miracid are commonly used, but check label directions for your tree. Do not feed right after repotting (wait 3 to 4 weeks). Do not feed if the tree is in a weakened condition. Always water your tree before fertilizing. Never fertilize a very dry bonsai, and do not over fertilize! This may burn the roots and cause stress to the tree.
Repotting: Bonsai must be repotted periodically to supply the root system with fresh soil. It is also necessary to keep the root system in balance with the top growth. Most bonsai require repotting every two or three years, although this depends on the growth of the tree as well as the size of the pot. Repotting should be done in the early spring. Do not fertilize for 3 to 4 weeks after repotting. Do not let the roots go dry while repotting. Water well when finished.
Insects & Disease: A bonsai is a miniature version of a normal plant. Therefore, it can be treated with commonly found insecticides and fungicides according to directions on the package. Insects such as aphids, spider mites, scale, and root aphids are a common problem corrected by sprays, soapy rinse, or a systemic. It is a good idea to spray your Bonsai tree once every month or two with a non-toxic insect spray. Trees should not be sprayed in full sun, or when the soil is dry.
Trimming, Pruning, and Training: Trimming and pruning are the means by which bonsai are kept small. This involves the systematic removal of vigorous growth in the spring, however, for the health of the tree one should never remove all the new growth at one time. The roots are trimmed and so is the foliage on the plant. The tree is wired to assist in getting branches to grow in a specific position and to enhance the look of the tree. Wire is removed after 6 months. The branch should then stay in that position on its own. Wire should be carefully cut from the branches. Do not unwind wires as this could break the branch. Trim branches to expose the trunk and to shape the tree into the look you want.
Displaying your tree: When you have finished working on your tree, you will want to find a nice place to display it for all to see. Ideally, it should be positioned so that the front faces forward and the tree is roughly eye level. Trees should never be placed directly on the ground.
As your collection grows, you will want to create a display stand of some sort. You may choose to display bonsai alone on a single stand or together on a larger bench. Most important, you should make sure that the tree is positioned so that it either gets the light it needs or is sheltered from the sun if it requires shade.